French fashion house Saint Laurent presented its Fall Winter 2023 menswear collection at the historic Bourse de Commerce in Paris, which was recently renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando.
The Saint Laurent show took place inside the Parisian art museum on the evening of January 17, 2023, and marked Saint Laurent’s first menswear show in Paris under its current creative director, Anthony Vaccarello.
Located inside the rotunda of Ando’s revamped Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, the show kicked off on the first day of Paris Fashion Week’s Fall Winter 2023 menswear season.
A continuous row of seats, in the form of a De Sede DS-600 black leather modular sofa, meandered around the entire inner perimeter of Ando’s 90-foot-wide, 30-foot-tall cylindrical concrete wall, converted into space. of exhibition.
A rich stone-colored carpet covered the floors of the circular room below what was to be the show’s catwalk and leather-clad audience seats.
“Art and Saint Laurent have been partners from the beginning, making Japanese architect Tadao Ando’s radical structure-within-a-structure a natural setting for tonight’s concise and intimate presentation,” Saint Laurent said in the show notes.
“The gleaming concrete cylinder echoes the luminous circle at the center of the brand’s latest menswear show, almost without realizing it, the O shape, a symbol of perfection and purity of execution, becomes a recurring and pertinent thread. at Saint Laurent.”
The interior was dimly lit by spotlights arranged like a regiment along the walls of the concrete space behind the single row of seats.
A grand piano, twisted off-center, was placed in the middle of the exhibition space below the 19th-century mural that adorns the ceiling of the glass-oculus rotunda.
Under Ando’s three-year restoration and renovation, the architect added the monolithic concrete tubular volume within the glass-domed rotunda at the center of the building, which also functions as an observation deck accessed from through a staircase that runs along the outside of the building. wall.
The cylindrical concrete volume extends towards the basement of the building forming a large auditorium while linking the ground floor of the rotunda with the upper levels of the building, which were also renovated and restored by the studio.
The French businessman and founder of the Kering luxury group, of which François Pinault owns Saint Laurent, commissioned Ando with the renovation and restoration project in 2017 to display his collection of some 5,000 works of art.
Vaccarello explained that the show was working as a sequel to his Spring Summer 2023 show in the Moroccan desert in which London-based artist and set designer Es Devlin installed a circular pool and glowing ring in the middle of red sand dunes in the Moroccan desert. Afagay.
“A continuation of the previous seasons, the latest Saint Laurent collection presents the evolutionary vision of Anthony Vaccarello in the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection,” he said.
Vaccarello featured floor-skimming hoodies and coats throughout the show, most notably seen at his Spring Summer 2023 womenswear show in 2022.
Replicating such silhouettes, Vaccarello explained that his men’s and women’s clothing under Saint Laurent were interchangeable.
“I want them to be almost one person,” she told Vogue. “The man goes to the women’s and the women to the men’s.”
In 2021, American artist Doug Aitken built a kaleidoscopic catwalk installation of mirrors and plants for Saint Laurent’s Spring Summer 2022 show in Venice, Italy.
Photography is courtesy of Saint Laurent.